I may sound grumpy, but damn, it sure is pretty here. This is the downtown skyline, from left: the Loretto Chapel, allegedly the first Gothic structure built west of the Mississippi, of course by a French colonialist bastard, Bishop Lamy; the St. Francis Cathedral, weirdly stunted because Lamy ran out of cash and good will before he could build the spires; and the Inn at Loretto faux-pueblo hotel, built on the ruins of the old Loretto nuns’ girls school, so allegedly mean-spirited women in wimples haunt the halls.