Category: Food

Moo & Oink

Peter came home all teary-eyed yesterday, having sat in a bar and read the new issue of Saveur, which is all about Chicago. He was maybe sad and homesick, but maybe also crying with laughter over Moo & Oink, an iconic Chicagoland grocery store.

Check it:

Best. Suicide. Food. Ever.

Water Boils: Demystifying Brown Bagging

I’m a lazy blogger. I rarely have time or inclination to seek out other food and travel bloggers. The ones I know and like have all come to me (The Homesick Texan, A Thinking Stomach, Daily Gluttony, etc) via comments, which I greatly appreciate.

And now, thanks to a comment on a Flickr photo, I’ve encountered another one, which is gorgeous eye candy and a topic after my own heart: Water Boils. It’s dedicated to boxed lunches.

When I was little, I was entirely responsible for my school lunches. This meant I bought a Peanuts-branded sandwich cookbook from that Scholastic catalog in third grade, and learned to make a million variations on peanut butter sandwich. This meant I would take things like canned sardines and Saltine crackers to the cafeteria, in my purple ‘Disco’ lunchbox. I was not exactly popular. But I really liked my lunches.

And now, as an occasional freelancer in the wastelands of Midtown, I still take great satisfaction in packing my lunch. No $7 sandwich for me, thanks. No heaping mound of halal-whatever-with-MSG. Occasionally I get a fussy officemate who laments the presence of garlic, but occasionally too I get a neighbor who says, “Ooooh, that smells great! What’d you bring?”

Anyhoo, I’m happy to see someone else in the world is just as obsessed–OK, who am I kidding, a hell of a lot more obsessed–with boxed lunches. Must get me a tiffin.

(Thanks so much to all the interesting people who stop by here. I need to get out more.)

Why I Love Astoria, entry #2,873: El Athens Grill

Athens GrillI’m sure it’s just for legal reasons, but it warms my heart that this Mexican joint on 30th Avenue still has the word ‘Athens’ in its name. It’s been a Mexican place for a couple of years, but it came out of the closet this spring with signs in the window advertising tortas, tacos and more, and switching the open window-service zone to a display of salsas and tasty-looking spiced meats.

Inside, there’s still the bad mirror-mural of the Greek countryside, and even a poster on fluorescent paper saying, “Bienvenidos a Athens Grill!”

The torta rocks, and they have Mexican Coca-Cola. Welcome to the neighborhood, mis amigos.

Big Night vs. Small Night

So, paella went OK. I mean, it tasted great, and everyone ate well and seemed to have a good time. There are some pics over here.

But.

I got more pleasure out of cooking dinner last week–one of those dinners that starts with, ‘Crap–the fridge is empty!’

Then I remembered the beet greens (shamelessly scavenged at the Greenmarket, as the guys offer to rip them off the beet bunches, and then they just wind up in a heap on the ground).

As I was chopping up the garlic to use as a base for those, I thought some yogurt would go nicely, and we had just a little bit of the thick Greek stuff left. So I crushed an extra garlic clove for that.

The yogurt made me think of the Turkish combo of poached eggs with garlic yogurt. We had a lot of eggs, and they weren’t gettin’ any fresher. Presto, protein.

The beet greens were wedged in a bag with a bunch of radishes (the thing I actually paid for at the beet-farmer’s stall–I’m not that shameless). I figured since the beet greens (and heck, throw in some of the radish tops) were going to be sharp and garlicky, maybe I could tone down the radishes by simmering them in butter–but not so much they lost their crunch, which would be necessary contrast to the soft greens. We also had some leftover beef stock, so I threw in a glug of that, and went and ripped a handful of chives out of the front patch, for color.

Then starch. Something about the greens made me think: polenta. Which we didn’t have. But we did have semolina. Not such an exciting texture, but a perfectly good starch, especially once I added the last of a container of heavy cream that had been sitting at the back of the top shelf for a looong time (ultra-pasteurization can be a good thing, I guess). And grated in some random cheese that had been otherwise unappreciated.

Poached the eggs. Put ’em on a bed of semolina mush. Scooped on the veg. Dolloped the yogurt. Sprinkled Turkish pepper on the eggs for color and a smidge of heat. Beautiful. Nutritious.

But what was most exciting about the meal was the way my brain was firing as I made it. I didn’t have to sit and plan–I just started working, and while my hands did their bit, my brain was running two steps ahead: ‘Gonna need cheese for the semolina. Right–the cacciowhatever, get rid of that finally… Radishes look so sickly when they’re sauteed. Good–give those chives a little action.’ It’s a feeling that people who don’t yet know how to cook can’t understand–for them, cooking is all about cleaning dishes, lingering smells, other drawbacks. But once you get an inkling of this feeling, you’re hooked.

This feeling is also the closest thing to working in a restaurant kitchen–that’s more adrenaline, but the same autopilot coordination. But at home, of course, you also get to be creative.

Which is why more people should aspire to be home cooks, not schmancy resto chefs. And why more people should cook dinner for themselves and a few friends, rather than for twice-a-year, planning-requiring blowouts. If you don’t believe me, read Robert Farrar Capon for inspiration.

End sermon.

Blog Expansion: Sripraphai Database

Peter and I ate at Sripraphai last night. I think it’s been eight years since I’ve been going there. I remember when it was one room, with mirrors on one wall. I once saw a Thai customer pick up the sugar dispenser on his table and pour sugar all over his noodles. Enlightening.

Anyway, we realized there are just swaths of the menu we’ve never tried, or don’t remember trying, at least. So now I’m making a compulsive list, starting now. Go here to see (sorry–too lazy to fiddle with Blogger templates–this is function, kids, not form).

I’m Cooked

Seeing how I’m shockingly slow on these things, probably everyone already saw the video of Christopher Walken making roast chicken and pears, oh, months ago. But it’s pretty great to see this man speak so calmly while he caresses this carcass.

Which is all a preamble to saying I’m very pleased to see this new I’m Cooked website, which is essentially YouTube for food. Why didn’t I think of that?

(But, disappointing: a video entitled “Cooking Queens” is two gay guys. I guess the world does not revolve around my favorite borough.)

Anyhoo, check it out. I also like the ’email me the recipe’ feature some videos have, like the Brazilian guy’s (though it’s got some kinks–I got a papaya recipe when I asked for hearts of palm, but…good idea nonetheless).

You’ve probably already watched mine and Tamara’s clip, but here’s the link.

Consumer “Freedom”

I’m skeptical of any organization that uses the words ‘Freedom’ or ‘Facts’ in its name, as it’s pretty much a guarantee of neither. (OK, Peter points out that Drug War Facts is legit.)

So yesterday I was poking around to see who’s putting those ‘PETA Kills Animals’ ads in the newspapers (not because I’m a huge PETA fan, but because it’s interesting they’re comparing PETA to whathisname Vick, who I think people are freaking out about way too much).

And I discover the extra-creepy Center for Consumer Freedom. First, it’s a .com, and not a .org, and then you can see the super-conservative, l-heart-mega-corporations interpretation of the food debate. Our food supply, is just fine, thanks, Americans are not grossly obese (this is hard to argue with, but they do), and mad-cow disease is no big deal (I actually didn’t read this because I was getting too depressed, but I’m guessing that’s their stance).

The positive spin: grassroots change in food is becoming such a force that corporations (via some consulting firm run by a senator, if I read the PETA conspiracy page correctly) are feeling like they have to push back. The negative: they have all the money in the world, and a lot of people don’t care either way, so they will surely win.

I hate my ‘freedom.’

“Loving Baltimore takes some resilience.”

Peter’s a little worried that when his book comes out, people will think he hates Baltimore. In fact, he loves it. There was a very nice piece on NPR’s Morning Edition today, an interview with crime writer Laura Lippman, about how Baltimore is f***ed up, but still wonderful. There’s discussion (and samples) of the Baltimore accent–now you know what John Travolta was trying for in Hairspray–and, the whole reason I’m posting this, brief but rapturous discussion of Faidley’s crab cakes in Lexington Market. Good eatin’, hon. No visit to Charm City is complete without them.

Ali’s Kabab Cafe: Now Starring on No Reservations

Can I just say?

Anthony Bourdain, while eating Ali’s food: “I’m insanely jealous of people who live in this neighborhood now.”

Hell, yes!

Now watch the clip:

The funny thing is, I was _there_ for the taping. In the other half of the restaurant that you don’t see on TV. It was not as thrilling as it sounds, to be 10 feet from Anthony Bourdain et al., but the food kicked some incredible ass. (Despite–or perhaps because of–the fact that Ali was drinking his “special” espressos from the cafe across the street, meaning with a slug of sambuca.) If you’re looking very, very, very, very closely, you can see the edge of my glasses in the background while they’re smoking sheesha afterward.

However, if you go here and get to photo No. 9 of 11, you’ll get to see my actual boobs, all decked out in baby blue! Granted, I’m hunching over a little, so they’re not at their best. And you unfortunately can’t quite read my culturally appropriate “New York”-in-Arabic T-shirt from Rana Hajjar. But it’s me. And Tamara. And Nina, another KC loyalist.

But, really, it’s all about Ali, and he looks fantastic. Independent sources confirm this. We have a houseguest arriving in a couple of days from Savannah, Ga., and he said, “Oh, there are two places I want to go in New York! I just saw them on TV! One’s this place called Kabab? In this neighborhood called Astoria? And the other is Prune.” (Sorry–no one’s posted the Prune section online yet.)

Welcome to my world! I know how to cook potatoes rosti the Prune way, and Tony Bourdain is jealous of me!