Category: Travel for Fun

Reports from Air Koryo

Oh goody–someone is blogging with obsessive detail about his flight to North Korea! After my Air Cubana flight, which was, to quote Heidi, “the fastest bus I’ve ever been on,” I’ve been curioius about the world’s more marginalized airlines. Curious–but not enough to actually fly them.

Meanwhile, Paul Karl Lukacs on Knife Tricks is reporting thusly:

Air Koryo is a flying circus featuring strangely coifed, vampiric flight attendants who work in a cabin straight out of a 1970s’ airport movie while travelers read palpably insane propaganda as they jet to an isolated dictatorship which is officially governed by a dead man.

He just got back from the trip, so presumably more detailed reports from the ground to come as well.

Rock on, Mr. Dinosaur!

While I’m busy worrying about crossing the street in Cairo, someone I know is actually doing the Mongol Rally this summer. That involves driving all the way from London to Mongolia, in a tin can. But you get a special exemption to the one-litre-engine rule if you do it in an extremely weird vehicle, like a cherry-picker.

Haven’t picked a favorite to back yet? May I recommend Josh’s team, Mr. Dinosaur? Don’t be put off by the fact that they still haven’t got a vehicle–they’re relying on the whims of eBay UK. I urge you to contribute with cash donations–they will need them to donate to charities, as well as to buy cartons of cigarettes and buckets of whiskey with which to smooth their passage through the ‘Stans.

Josh is a fellow copy editor–so you know he’s reliable. And hopefully good at creative problem-solving…

The race begins July 21.

New Orleans: Fry Me a River

First: no green-pepper showdowns on the mean streets of the Crescent City. In fact, the only time I got even a hint of the stuff was in some alleged lobster oil floated on some cucumber soup, but by then my taste buds were so fried by, well, fried food that I could no longer judge. (More on that later.)

The second most important thing: New Orleans is a fabulous place to ride a bike. The fact that I’m mentioning this before the food is saying a lot. It has been a long winter, and I’m a little bike-deprived, so that may account for some of my enthusiasm. Another big asset: We had excellent guides in the form of Dan Baum and Meg Knox, who advised us on everything from where to rent the two-wheelers to which streets had the worst potholes. (Yes, the very same Dan Baum whose New Yorker blog I was admiring just a week ago. Lordy, I love the Internet.)

But in addition to all that, New Orleans is mostly level ground, completely anarchic without being crowded (read: I don’t have to follow traffic rules), and every person you pass has a little something to say, often about your hat. I’m sure in some neighborhoods, at some times of the night, the commentary from the sidewalk might not be so heartwarming, but this trip really reminded me why a bicycle seat is the best space to inhabit as a tourist. And certainly a bike is ideal for 2007 New Orleans, where you have this prurient interest in seeing just what the place looks like post-horror, but don’t want to seem like you’re staring. A bike goes a polite speed, a tactful speed.

(For the record: it is still a disaster, even though/because it’s not in the news much anymore. The trauma is palpable. Everyone wants to talk about it, but no one has anything else to say. It’s a strange place to be a tourist. Compare with Cancun, where everyone sports “I survived Wilma” T-shirts and laughs a lot; only the stubby palm trees are a clue that the biggest hurricane ever in the Caribbean landed here, not long after Katrina hit New Orleans.)

OK, OK: the food. Knox-n-Baum were also fine tour guides in this department, but we also got pointed to a sweet shrimp po’boy by a random dude on the street, which is proof that New Orleans really is an eatin’ town. If I asked a New Yorker for a restaurant recommendation, he would never give up his favorite place, and the place he pointed you to just at the end of the block would be some pretty crappy diner.

First night out, we gorged at Cochon, due to its proximity to where we were staying and its featuring calas on the menu. Not that I could actually remember what a cala was, but I did remember having clipped a recipe from a Slow Food magazine many years ago. (Oh, guess what? It’s something fried.) Cochon struck me as doing just the right amount of fancy-ifying of the Cajun and Creole oeuvre, but I’m not some kind of expert with standards of authenticity to offend. I pretty much bet there was no cream-of-mushroom soup at work back in the open kitchen, but there was of course a lot of bacon, and some succulent little ribs, and some sweet-and-smoky collards. Also some really buttery oysters. It was a bit of a blur due to travel daze and chatting with KnB and loads of small plates.

Next day…also a bit of a blur. Fried shrimp. Fried oysters. Root beer on tap at the Rock ‘n’ Bowl. Some soft-shell crab. Some eggplant and crab in a spicy cream sauce in capers, which made me realize what’s so genius about food in Louisiana: It’s all the completely unapologetic richness of French food, with the kick in the ass of spicy heat. It’s probably the only place at that near-tropical latitude that consumes so much butter and cream. Sounds like a recipe for disease of some kind, but damn, it tastes good.

Saturday: more fried oysters. Some fried catfish. A cherry Danish. Zapp’s potato chips in limited-edition Tabasco flavor and “craw-tator.”

And then: The Wedding! The whole reason we were there, and the reason Peter (aka Recently Made Reverend) was wearing such a snazzy hat. Jim and Daphne tied the knot, to tearful toasts, terrible limericks and Led Zeppelin. I haven’t been to such a solid costume party in years, aside from that thing in the desert outside Reno. And I don’t think I’ve ever had such good food at a wedding. I rounded out my day with some fried chicken, plus a solid helping of collard greens. And the cake was scrumptious–by the pastry chef at Lillette, where I was sorry we didn’t get to eat. Oh, then a late-night bite of a grilled pork chop from an especially crazy grill contraption.

Sunday. I was so beat by biking against the wind (sing it, Mr. Seger) to get to the Single Ladies Pleasure Club’s second line that not even fried oysters and shrimp on the same bun could get me back in the game. A few bites of a smoked sausage bought from a grill mounted in the back of some guy’s truck helped a little. But even a couple of Pimm’s cups didn’t provide the refreshment I needed. Nor did a glass of red wine with ice in Tamara and Karl’s hotel room. (Yes, we take them everywhere we go!)

So by the time I tottered into Restaurant August, nearly the poshest spot in town and probably the only reason a random Google-r will land on this post, I could barely face a single plate of food.

Yes, I had a Campari. And fizzy water. But I really needed some Roman-era purging treatment. Peter had a five-course tasting menu, and I picked at my beet salad. Even asparagus soup seemed too rich, and a nibble of lamb nearly killed me. That’s when I thought I tasted green pepper in the lobster oil. So really, who knows?

Oh, but it’s good to be human–for what did I have the very next afternoon, as our plane took off from Louis Armstrong International?

A shrimp po’boy, of course.

Into the Heart of Darkness

I pretty much like all foods. I mean, almost. After I got over cilantro tasting like dish soap, and beets tasting like dirt (they still do, but now I don’t mind), the only thing left that I really don’t like to eat is:

Cooked green peppers. [horror-movie reverb font]

They remind of school lunch. Even at parts per billion, they manage to contaminate a whole dish, and make it taste…cheap, or something.

So I’m feeling a little anxious about going to Cajun-land tomorrow, where every recipe seems to start, “First, you saute your green peppers…”

There’ s a major disconnect here: I can’t imagine that an entire cuisine is actually going to be disgusting to me. I mean, it has hundreds of years of tradition and love behind it–how can it be bad? How can it really taste like spaghetti day in 1981 at A. Montoya Elementary?

But what if I’m served a big bowl of gumbo by some smiling old woman, who’s been slaving at a hot stove for decades…and I really just don’t like it?

I’m keeping an open mind. Believe me, I want to shake this negative association. I assume it’s just like getting used to guitar feedback. I just need to eat the Pixies, rather than, say, Whitesnake. Uh, right?

Meanwhile, this new post from Dan Baum, complete with photos of plump fried oysters, convinces me I’m doing the right thing by going, and facing my demons. It’s not like I’ll starve.

(Also, a Google map I made, based on assorted recommendations–any other suggestions?)

New York–what a town!

Just got back from a wild holiday weekend in that thrilling metropolis known as Manhattan–perhaps you’ve heard of it?

Living in Queens, even the first neighborhood into Queens, it’s easy to lost sight of the glass-towered shores of Manhattan. As I might’ve mentioned many times before, we have excellent restaurants and fine friends, as well as a giant movie theater, right here in Asssss-toria.

Peter and I had intended to actually leave town for the weekend, but we were gripped with indecision in the face of too many train schedules. Plus, I was a bit burnt-out from my Mexico jaunt.

Then Peter hit on the genius solution: We would check in to the Winslow Place B&B–in which the B’s stand for the ‘bed’ in our ‘basement.’ So we packed up our bags, walked downstairs and locked the door behind us.

TripAdvisor reviews for Winslow Place praise its lax “hands-off” approach to hosting, but criticize its equally lax standards of housekeeping, its less-than-cohesive decor and its ridiculously small shower.

I’m fresh from the finest resorts the Riviera Maya has to offer, but I’ve gotta say, the place wasn’t bad. Remarkably homey, with some very nice (and novel!) amenities, such as a bottle of wine, some bananas and a cribbage set by the bedside. There was also a full Dance Dance Revolution setup, which I think must be unique to this B&B. And you can fit two people in the shower if you’re really, really careful.

During the day, we actually went…into…Manhattan! Mostly it was to see movies, but we fit in some other culture, at the Studio Museum in Harlem. We had drinks at the Ritz-Carlton in Lower Manhattan, and took pictures of the Statue of Liberty, while one of the bar employees danced around behind us to “Fascinated” (he thought no one could see him, but he was reflected perfectly in the floor-to-ceiling windows). We had more drinks, and really good food, at Employees Only, where we’ve been meaning to go for something like a year and a half (the owners, incidentally, live in Astoria); we were also horrified at the well-groomed-but-still-ugly-mob bar scene of Friday-night West Village.

And we even bought a sofa. Which nearly punctured the fabric of fiction that was swaddling our little weekend getaway…but fortunately, it’s not being delivered until Wednesday, which gives us a lot of time to settle back into our real home in Astoria. Amazing how cheap the delivery fee is, considering just how far away we were when we bought it!

Arabic: the peril of air travel

This only loosely has anything to do with what I normally write about here, but damn, I was pissed and ashamed to read about Raed in the Middle being given the runaround for wanting to wear a T-shirt with Arabic writing on a plane in the US. (The BBC also covered the incident.)

The gist is this: he was wearing a T-shirt that says “We will not be silent” in both Arabic and English. It’s a T-shirt that people have been wearing to protest totalitarian governments wherever they may be. Free speech, right on.

The FBI guys actually said they couldn’t trust that the English translation was accurate.

So I will say here what he could not say at the time, lest he be hauled off to jail for making threats:

What, you freakin’ idiots, you think terrorists are going to get on a plane wearing T-shirts that say in Arabic, ‘On the count of 3, hijack the plane’?

Now, I know Arabic is very, very baffling, with all its squiggles, and its dots, and its right-to-lefting. But it is not a dangerous weapon that people should live in fear of. I mean, Americans have enough other things to be afraid of, from pedophiles to global warming, to worry about a foreign language making them a little nervous while they’re on a plane.

That’s sort of the message implicit in two T-shirts I recommend buying:

I’m Not a Terrorist: in both masculine and feminine versions, Ts and tanks, black and white, at low, low prices. No English translation, for enhanced jumpiness-making. (Yes, fusha freaks, I know the masculine version isn’t completely grammatically correct, as it lacks its tanween, but what’re you gonna do? Go kvetch on Language Log.)

If that’s a little too ballsy for you (or, hey, if you’re just not 100% sure), then you can go with this:

Rana Hajjar’s cool-font “New York” T-shirts (and OK, there’s Beirut and Brooklyn too–but no Queens, harrumph)

The clever thing about Rana’s shirts is they’re not immediately obviously Arabic. And then someone asks what your shirt says, and you say, “New York. In Arabic.” And then the person looks a little jumpy. And then you look at them with your eyes narrowed, as if to say, “C’mon, really? You’re worried?” And then they shift a little, and smile, as if to say, “Naw, dude, I’m cool. I’m all multicultural.”

Good Christ, get over it, people. And if you’re so freaked about security on planes, maybe you should go work for TSA yourself. Get your training here:

Bomb or Not

Thank you for listening to this public service announcement.

Sea Urchins in Greece–finally

My days in Greece went something like this: wake up, put on bathing suit, make some random plan for going somewhere, walk down to the hotel lobby, and encounter someone else who will change my plans completely. Sometimes that was good, and sometimes it was very, very good.

The sea urchins were one of the latter cases. When I walked downstairs, I looked out on the veranda and saw Fani, my godmother, hard at work with a couple of her friends.
Urchins1
The funny thing was just how merry she looked about what seemed to be a really disgusting enterprise. They were cleaning a big tray of sea urchins. That involved, Fani explained, cutting out the soft “eye” on the bottom with scissors, then scraping all this brown jiggly goo out, while leaving the good part intact. All this while not stabbing yourself with the pointy bits.

They did look beautiful when they were done:
Urchins2

I’d never seen the inside of a sea urchin, and the only place I’d encountered the stuff before was as a big jiggly orange blob on a plate in Japanese restaurants, where it has come to be the ballsiest thing to order after chicken sashimi. I once read a (favorable) description of eating sea urchin as “like going down on a mermaid.” This whole sexier/cooler/bad-asser-than-thou posturing has no place in food, I think, and the one time I ate sea urchin, I was annoyed at the gung-ho attitude at the table. Maybe I was just being contrary when I said, “Enh.” Like a lot of Japanese food, it seemed to be a lot about the texture–or whether you can ignore the texture, which is silky and slithery and a lot like barely cooked brains.

But seeing these little sea urchins in their natural state, as sparkling orange stars laid out in black shells, I could see the appeal. They looked even more appealing when placed next to a bottle of ouzo:
Urchins3

The other accompaniment was fresh-baked bread, with which we were to scoop out the insides.
Urchins4

So, we dug in. The orange goo, smeared on the bread, was sweet and salty, delicate but also unmissable. It got a little more missable as I drank more ouzo, but before that, I was astounded by the tender, full flavor.

I was also touched at the extent to which humans will go to find something tasty. Around the table there was a glee that could not be credited completely to the ouzo. It was also sheer delight that we humans had once again succeeded in foraging. We had used our exceptional cunning to find, in the most unlikely of places, something not just edible but delicious. We’d won against these sea urchins, and that was cause for celebration.
Urchins5

Just a few weeks later, I got the same feeling at a crab feast in Baltimore, but that’s yet another story.

Summer pics

Still haven’t dealt with sea urchins, but in the meantime, Fotaq has our photos from Lyon and Mytilene.

The Lyon series unfortunately does not show the three-foot-tall gag pepper mill we endured for one dinner, nor the pounds and pounds of pain au chocolat consumed (nor, for that matter, Estela’s catchy song entitled “Pain au Chocolat”). Oh, and for the record, that’s not my kid.

The Mytilene series starts with photos from the cafeineon (coffe house) in Megalochori, a little mountain village with delicious spring water. We wouldn’t have really noticed the water, except that it was all the sisters who ran the cafeineon could talk about, in between slipping us plates of sausages, french fries, salad, and some very intense cheese. So afterward, we did walk over to the springs, and they were lovely and refreshing, and I wish I had some of that water right now.

As for the lunch, we were afraid to thoroughly clean our plates, lest they come dish us up more. See, we hadn’t ordered any of it, and we knew there’d be a struggle over the bill when we left–and not the way you think. Because of course they’d insist we shouldn’t pay them anything, and we’d say that’s ridiculous, and then Peter would buy the guys at the table some ouzo, and sneak in a few euros extra, and the ladies would say OK, fine, and we’d still go away with tears in our eyes that these total strangers were willing to spot us lunch.

So, there were a few snippets of cheese and ends of bread on one plate, and the one woman comes over to clean up, and she sees this. And she gets a napkin and ties all the cheese and bread bits up in a little bundle, and presses it into my hand. Aw. They even do takeout.

And I won’t link directly to this, but for the curious: photos of our wedding in Eressos, also on Fotaq. Nowhere near the hijinks of last year’s baptism, in part because the priest’s ne’er-do-well sons weren’t there, doing silly dances in their swimsuits. Word on the street was that they were grounded for setting their friend on fire. It’s hard to be the priest’s sons, I guess.

Some pics from Greece: overordering vs. portion panic

Still not the lovely sea urchin ones (have to get those off Peter’s computer), but over on Fotaq, there’s a little indication of what we did all day, every day. (And if you squint at the background, you can kind of get an idea of what a nice place it is.)

The back story to all these goofy pictures is this: Around Day 4 of our sojourn in Skala Eressou, Peter’s dad started getting a little concerned about how much we were eating, and, specifically, how much we were ordering at dinner every night. In the grand scheme of things, half a grilled fish going uneaten is no great crime, but I could certainly empathize with Charlie as Peter would flag down the waiter for the fourth time and say, “Aaaaand we’ll have a plate of the…” (but in Greek).

When there are 17 people around a big long table, and everyone’s saying, “How ’bout some lamb chops? Some macaronia? More tzatziki!” it can get out of hand pretty easily, and it did always fill me with an abstract anxiety. People, we need a PLAN, I felt like saying, but by then it was already too late, and the random ordering had begun. In truth, we rarely ended up with way too much food, but there was a certain haphazardness to the meals that maybe could’ve been averted.

Part of the problem is that you never realize, until you’re in the middle of it, the flaw of ordering a variety of dishes to match the number of people at the table. Because then the dishes come, and really, there’s never going to be enough taramosalata on that plate to feed 20 people, and you realize this just as the taramosalata has started around the table in precisely the opposite direction from you. So, you give it up for lost and keep your eye on the next thing the waiter’s setting down.

And just like that, your dinner is ruined, because you’re having to strategize at the dinner table like the last-born in a Mormon family. “Portion panic,” as I believe Jessika dubbed it, sets in, and before you know it you’re hoarding and reaching, and sneaking the last bites of things, and slipping french fries under your plate for later (actually, I just thought of that now, but it’s kind of a good idea) and so on.

So, anyway, Charlie I guess saw this happening–plus the occasional unfinished fish–and tried to do something about it. But of course that backfired, because if you lean over to Peter and say, “Hey, don’t overorder,” of course Peter’s just going to roll his eyes and keep doing what he’s doing. It’s too late.

The overordering thing reached fever pitch the day of our wedding. After our super-express 40-minute speed-read ceremony, we all traipsed down the hill to the little meze joint we’d talked into opening in the afternoon just to feed us a little snicky-snack and a little ouzo.

But you can’t very well tell a Greek restaurateur, “We’ll be coming from a wedding,” and expect him to undercater, or even sensibly cater. And he didn’t grossly over-cater, but there was an almost comically endless stream of little plates arriving at the table–to the point where Charlie started saying, “Stop! Phot, make him stop!” And he did, briefly, stop the flow of skordalia, beets, deep-fried meatballs, super-funky bastirma, sausage bits, cold white beans, succulent little zucchini wedges…but then we realized, WHY would you want to go and do an idiotic thing like that? (It helped that we’d been drinking the raki, briefly mistaken for water by my mother, for a little bit.)

Yes, there was some tragic food waste that afternoon. You can’t save the soul of every little meatball–you just have to focus on the ones you have been able to help.

So, then, after Charlie went home, Peter and Andrew briefly tried to heed his cautionary words. And that’s how we got these photos.

Fun in Hospital, Part III: Luxe Life at UCSF!

To be honest, I’ve never thought of San Francisco as a real city. There are a few tall buildings, but they’re utterly canceled out by all the cute little pink-and-purple painted houses. And it’s really kind of small.

So when I found myself in the emergency room at the UC San Francisco Medical Center, I had the knee-jerk obnoxious New Yorker reaction: I must flee home, out of the provinces, to where people know what they’re doing! But health status precluded that, and it turned out my surgeon was actually very qualified. Peter’s mind was put at ease when Dr. Schiller, the very heartfelt (no pun intended) cardiologist, took him aside and said, “You know, we’re all from Boston anyway.”

For some reason, I wasn’t thinking of all the thoroughly crappy hospital experiences I’d had in New York. And that’s not the least bit fair, because UCSF was leagues better than even Mt. Sinai, straight from the get-go.

The ER (excuse me, ED–emergency department) waiting room was a soothing off-white, furnished with light-pine curvy Ikea chairs, a warm overhead glow, a smattering of magazines, and, happily, no one waiting. Compare this to the Mt. Sinai ER, where rickety chairs-in-a-row salvaged from some abandoned airport were crowded in the center of a fortress of vending machines, under a grim, dim fluorescent light. Winter air rushed in from a side room under construction, and the ladies’ room made me happy I was wearing boots. It was the kind of place that made you want to wear a face mask.

At UCSF, I was ushered in promptly, and with compassion. Again, not something you find in NYC, where everyone has already seen everything, and your niggling half-blindness is just no big deal, and actually a bit of a pain in the ass to the triage nurse.

Within minutes, I was sitting on a comfy bed in a private room. I can’t convey how astounding this was. If LIJ Forest Hills was Stoner Joe and Buddhist Bob’s Youth Hostel in Nepal, UCSF was the new Uma Paro resort in Bhutan. My nurse was a hip, competent, comforting young woman who explained what they were planning, who they were waiting for, and what would be involved.

And it all happened quickly! Well, quickly for the ER, anyway. Within half an hour, an attending opthalmologist came around; another half an hour, and the opthalmologic surgeon was there. When they said they were going to run a CT scan on me, they came and got me about 40 minutes later–along with apologies for the wait. And directly into the scanner–no sitting abandoned in a wheelchair out in the hall.

I’d go on, but positive reviews are boring to read. Just imagine that for eight days, I had a flock of kindly nurse angels gathered around me–kind of like private butlers. I even got a sponge bath twice. I got whisked from ER straight to the ICU, even pre-surgery. The food was passable, and there was real silverware, not plastic, not to mention butter and yogurt. The nurses made an effort to feed me in off-hours: “We have a very nice fruit-and-cottage-cheese plate today,” one even said to me, as if we were at Diet Bennigan’s or something. (I was, however, very disappointed in the Jello–which was not Jello, I suppose because vegetarians and kosher-keepers would object, but something thickened with carageenan. Humph.)

The only dodgy-feeling part of the whole stay (aside from a really protracted discharge process–but that seems to be the case everywhere) was when I got taken down to the OR for surgery. First, there’s something disturbing about being pushed along at speed on a gurney–I always think of that creepy movie Jacob’s Ladder. Also, we’d descended into what felt like the bowels of the hospital: the halls were narrower, more people were rushing, and everyone was wearing matching scrubs.

I got wheeled into the most cramped quarters I saw at UCSF: a sort of pre-OR holding pen, where gurneys were lined up in rows, separated by curtains. Even then, though, some people got some chairs for my dad and his girlfriend to sit next to me. The atmosphere seemed tense–everyone was pretending to be calm, but they weren’t, and the sense of urgency hung in the air. Imagine, perhaps, a combination of airport and slaughterhouse.

Fortunately the sedative and its amnesiac effect kicked in just when the nurses promised (“It’s like drinking a glass of wine in one gulp,” one said; “I wouldn’t know a thing about that,” I replied), so I have only about ten minutes of memory from there. But those ten minutes did include a nervous-making exchange with the nurses in which I had to alert them to the fact that I’d never been asked what kind of replacement valve I wanted, in case it came down to it.

But to compensate, the ICU room was large enough to accommodate just about every visitor I had at once, and my private room was as big as a hacienda’s dancehall. The view out the window was all wobbly eucalyptus trees, along with some elaborate ventilation systems, all gleaming silver, in the foreground. I felt like I was in some colony on a jungle-covered moon.

Once I got around to walking, I could also take in the view from the fabled solarium, a corner room with a view down the hill and across most of San Francisco, with the Golden Gate Bridge smack in the middle. From there, it really did look like a city.

(Fun in Hospital, Part II)
(Fun in Hospital, Part I)