Tag: athens

Piraeus’ Accidental Museum of Travel

Remember travel agents? I think I last used one in 1996, to book a trip to the Dominican Republic.

In Greece, where as we all know from the news, they’re not really keeping up with the program, it was hard to even find ferry schedules online up until a few years ago. And, as far as I know, you still have to buy tickets from a travel agent.

Peter and I happened to pop into this place for our Hydra tickets, and it was everything you want in a travel agency.

Mmm, two kinds of fake wall treatment!
Holland: always reliable
Map courtesy of a defunct airline. Amazing Hawaii is even on there.
The date is correct. But Olympic Airlines no longer exists.
Surprisingly not a defunct airline.
That's some mighty fine linoleum.

Since I read this nice reminder from Fortnighter that flying isn’t so terrible, I’ve been thinking a lot about the so-called “golden age” of travel. I tend to agree things are pretty good right now.

Aside from the asinine security situation, flying is pretty great, even when it’s not supposed to be. In the same 10 days, I flew first class on Thai Airways (thank you, frequent-flyer miles) and Spirit Airlines. Thai was fine but not mind-blowing, and Spirit was not that terrible: it was insanely cheap and got us there relatively on time, and Peter booked it directly online the minute we decided to take it.

Sure, the QM2 didn’t have a bouillon cart or other old-school niceties, but it probably was more comfortable than if we’d crossed the Atlantic in decades past. (As for train travel…well, trains aren’t getting nicer, except in Germany maybe, and Japan probably.)

This travel agency in Greece reflects this same nostalgia problem. I miss all the groovy linoleum and old posters, but I don’t miss the agency itself.

Although…our ferry tickets were printed out on a dot-matrix printer, with those perforated edges you have to tear off. I kinda miss that.

Greece Food Photos #1: Setting the Scene

Now that it’s officially not summer anymore, and we’re all back to laboring after Labor Day, I finally uploaded my Greece photos. For the food-obsessed, here are the highlights, starting with Athens and getting settled on Mytilene.

In Athens, we ate lunch twice at a little taverna near our apartment. Everything was stupendously good.

Athens Lunch

But as usual, I wish I’d eaten more of the spaghetti. I just can’t quite make this magic happen at home, and it kills me.

Spaghetti

We also had a great lunch at more of a modern hipster place, near Omonia. But no hipster nouveau-traditional restaurant I’ve ever been to has served shots of free hooch, unbidden, at the beginning of the meal. Raki all around, at 12.30 in the barely-afternoon, and then we had this. It looks like a mess but was actually a pretty presentation of a ndakos (Cretan rusk) salad. The juice from the tomatoes soaks the bread. On the right is our favorite brand of ouzo, Mini.

Modern Greek Cuisine

After Athens, we headed to Mytilene (aka Lesbos, and no, I will never stop leering). On the ferry, I received a wonderful invitation at the snack bar.

Join Our Delicious

In Eressos, many friends and family joined us. That called for a certain festive atmosphere, provided handily by boxed wine. Ours had a socialist bent:

The Party's Wine

This led to lots of jokes about five-year plans, and then not doing anything at all.

We also invented a drink: watermelon juice and ouzo. Surprisingly delightful. We couldn’t decide what to name it: the Li’l Bastard and the Prince of Persia were top contenders.

Pink Drink

By the way, there is some mild Mexican influence in Eressos, in the form of one Mexican co-owner of a cool bar. I think he might be singlehandedly responsible for introducing the idea of watermelon juice to our favorite beach cantina. As much as I resist homogenized beach culture, this was a great development.

And it’ll take a long while before this beach feels anything but Greek.

Cantina